Disconnect the duct, snake a rotary brush kit through, vacuum the wall stub, run the dryer empty for 5 min and feel the hood flap outside. Lint past the screen builds up at the hood elbow first - that is where fires start.
| SKU | QTY | SPEC | NOTE |
|---|---|---|---|
| BRUSH-DV | 1 kit | Dryer vent rotary brush, 12 ft (Gardus / LintEater) | Drill-driven, four-rod minimum |
| TAPE-FOIL | 1 roll | Foil HVAC tape, UL-181B | Do not use cloth duct tape; it dries out and falls off |
| CLAMP-W | 2 | Worm-gear clamp, 4 in. | Re-use only if undamaged; spare a pair |
| HOOD-FL | 1 | Vent hood flap kit (replacement) | Only if the existing flap is stuck or rusted |
| SKU | QTY | SPEC | NOTE |
|---|---|---|---|
| GEN-001 | 1 | Cordless drill, 12V minimum | - |
| GEN-002 | 1 | Vacuum with crevice tool | - |
| GEN-003 | 1 | Phillips-head screwdriver | - |
| GEN-004 | 1 | Headlamp | - |
Unplug the dryer (electric) or shut the gas valve and unplug (gas). Pull the dryer 18 in. forward. Disconnect the flexible transition duct from the wall stub.
Vacuum the wall stub with the crevice tool 18-24 in. deep. Most homeowner clogs sit at the first elbow inside the wall.
Connect the first rod of the rotary brush to the drill. Feed into the wall stub. Run drill clockwise only - counter-clockwise unscrews the rods inside the duct, which is the worst possible failure mode.
Add rods one at a time. Push and rotate to the outside hood. Pull back slowly while spinning. Repeat one full pass.
Reconnect the transition duct with worm-gear clamps and seal seams with foil tape. The flexible duct should be metal - plastic flex is a fire risk and most codes forbid it.
Run the dryer empty on the hottest cycle for 5 minutes. Walk outside and check the hood flap is opening freely and air is hot. Weak flow means clogged duct still - pull and re-snake.
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